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Take the 9c Test →What Is the 9c Climbing Test?
The 9c test is a standardized climbing strength assessment designed to estimate a climber's performance level without needing to climb routes. It was developed based on published research into the physical attributes of elite climbers, and the name comes from the fact that a perfect score of 40 points corresponds to the grade 9c — the hardest climbing route ever completed.
The test measures four independent physical qualities that research has shown to be the strongest predictors of climbing performance:
- Finger strength — the single most important factor in climbing; assessed on a 20mm edge
- Upper body pulling strength — measured via weighted pull-up
- Core strength — L-sit or front lever hold, reflecting body tension on overhangs
- Endurance — dead hang from a bar, testing sustained grip and forearm stamina
Each exercise is scored 1–10, for a maximum of 40 points. The score maps to a Fontainebleau climbing grade, giving you an objective estimate of your current strength level — separate from technique or route-reading skill.
Why a Physical Test for Climbing?
Climbing performance is hard to measure objectively. Your "grade" on a given day depends on familiarity with the rock type, how well you slept, whether you warmed up properly, and dozens of other factors. The 9c test strips away these variables and gives you a pure strength snapshot that you can track over time and compare across training cycles.
It's particularly useful for:
- Identifying your weakest physical attribute (finger strength vs. pulling vs. core vs. endurance)
- Setting training priorities — if your score is limited by one exercise, that's where to focus
- Tracking progress over months without needing to travel to crags
- Estimating your potential climbing grade before you've tried many routes
The Four Exercises: How to Perform and Score Them
How to do it: Use a hangboard with a 20mm edge (a standard-depth crimp). Hang from the edge with a half-crimp or open-hand grip (no full crimp — this reduces injury risk and is more sport-specific). Add weight using a weight belt or harness with a dumbbell. Hold for exactly 5 seconds. Rest fully and test your maximum.
What to measure: Total weight lifted = your bodyweight + any added weight. Score is based on this as a percentage of your bodyweight.
| Points | % Bodyweight (total) | Example (70kg climber) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 100% | 70kg (no added weight) |
| 2 | 110% | 77kg (+7kg) |
| 3 | 120% | 84kg (+14kg) |
| 4 | 130% | 91kg (+21kg) |
| 5 | 140% | 98kg (+28kg) |
| 6 | 150% | 105kg (+35kg) |
| 7 | 160% | 112kg (+42kg) |
| 8 | 180% | 126kg (+56kg) |
| 9 | 200% | 140kg (+70kg) |
| 10 | 220% | 154kg (+84kg) |
How to do it: From a dead hang on a pull-up bar (shoulder-width grip), add as much weight as possible via a weight belt and complete exactly one full pull-up — chin above bar. Rest well between attempts. The score uses the same bodyweight percentage scale as Exercise 1.
Why 1 rep? A 1-rep maximum tests absolute pulling strength, not endurance. This is the most sport-specific measure since hard moves on a route often require a single maximal pulling effort.
| Points | % Bodyweight (total) | Example (70kg climber) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 100% | 70kg (bodyweight only) |
| 3 | 120% | 84kg (+14kg) |
| 5 | 140% | 98kg (+28kg) |
| 7 | 160% | 112kg (+42kg) |
| 9 | 200% | 140kg (+70kg) |
| 10 | 220% | 154kg (+84kg) |
How to do it: Choose the hardest core position you can hold and time yourself. There are two progressions:
- L-sit (bent knees) — Arms locked out on parallettes or rings, knees bent to 90°, hips at height of hands
- L-sit (straight legs) — Same position but legs extended horizontal
- Front lever — Hanging from a bar, body horizontal and straight, arms locked
| Points | Exercise | Time |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | L-sit (bent knees) | 10 seconds |
| 2 | L-sit (bent knees) | 20 seconds |
| 3 | L-sit (bent knees) | 30 seconds |
| 4 | L-sit (straight) | 10 seconds |
| 5 | L-sit (straight) | 15 seconds |
| 6 | L-sit (straight) | 20 seconds |
| 7 | Front lever | 5 seconds |
| 8 | Front lever | 10 seconds |
| 9 | Front lever | 20 seconds |
| 10 | Front lever | 30 seconds |
How to do it: Hang from a standard pull-up bar at your bodyweight — no added weight. Hold until failure (when you can no longer maintain the grip). Time yourself. This tests your forearm and grip endurance, which underpins performance on pumpy routes and long sequences.
| Points | Hang Time |
|---|---|
| 1 | 30 seconds |
| 2 | 1 minute |
| 3 | 1 min 30 sec |
| 4 | 2 minutes |
| 5 | 2 min 30 sec |
| 6 | 3 minutes |
| 7 | 3 min 30 sec |
| 8 | 4 minutes |
| 9 | 5 minutes |
| 10 | 6 minutes |
Score → Climbing Grade Reference Table
Total your points across all four exercises and find your corresponding Fontainebleau grade. This is your estimated climbing performance level based on physical strength alone.
| Total Points | Fontainebleau | Yosemite (YDS) | Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | 6a | 5.9 | Intermediate |
| 3–4 | 6b | 5.10b | Intermediate |
| 5–6 | 6c | 5.10d | Intermediate |
| 7–8 | 6c+ | 5.11a | Intermediate |
| 9–10 | 7a | 5.11c | Advanced |
| 11–12 | 7a+ | 5.11d | Advanced |
| 13–14 | 7b | 5.12a | Advanced |
| 15–16 | 7b+ | 5.12b | Advanced |
| 17–18 | 7c | 5.12c | Advanced |
| 19–20 | 7c+ | 5.12d | Advanced |
| 21–22 | 8a | 5.13a | Elite |
| 23–24 | 8a+ | 5.13b | Elite |
| 25–26 | 8b | 5.13c | Elite |
| 27–28 | 8b+ | 5.13d | Elite |
| 29–30 | 8c | 5.14a | Elite |
| 31–32 | 8c+ | 5.14b | Elite |
| 33–34 | 9a | 5.14c | World class |
| 35–36 | 9a+ | 5.14d | World class |
| 37–38 | 9b | 5.15a | World class |
| 39 | 9b+ | 5.15b | World class |
| 40 | 9c | 5.15d | World class |
Where Do Elite Climbers Score?
Based on published data, interviews, and documented tests from elite climbers, here are estimated 9c test scores for some of the world's best:
Note: these are estimates based on known data points, not direct test results. Individual climbers may excel in some exercises and be weaker in others — a boulderer may have exceptional finger strength (high Ex1/Ex2) but lower endurance (Ex4).
What Does a "Normal" Recreational Climber Score?
Here's what to expect at different experience levels:
- Beginner (6 months – 1 year): 4–10 points. Score limited primarily by finger strength (often 1–2 pts) and core (0–2 pts).
- Intermediate (1–3 years): 10–18 points. Typically climbs Font 6c–7b. Finger strength is improving; core and endurance are usually the lagging indicators.
- Advanced (3–7 years, focused training): 18–28 points. Climbs Font 7c–8b. All four exercises contribute meaningfully.
- Elite recreational (7+ years): 28–34 points. Climbs Font 8b–9a. Requires systematic strength training beyond just climbing.
- Professional competition level: 34–40 points. These climbers have exceptional strength across all four dimensions.
What the 9c Test Doesn't Measure
The 9c test is a strong predictor of climbing performance but it's not a complete picture. Several important factors are not captured:
- Technique — footwork, body positioning, and movement efficiency can make a 20-point climber perform at 25-point level on certain routes
- Route reading — the ability to plan sequences quickly and efficiently
- Fear management — lead climbing ability, comfort with exposure, ability to clip while pumped
- Flexibility and mobility — hip flexibility is critical on slab and balance-dependent routes
- Sport-specific endurance — sustained power-endurance on steep routes is different from a dead hang
- Rock type familiarity — limestone, granite, sandstone, and plastic all demand different skills
The test is best used as a training tool — to identify physical weaknesses — rather than as an absolute performance predictor. A climber with perfect technique who scores 18 on the test might outperform a stronger climber who scores 24.
Ready to Take the Test?
Use the interactive 9c test calculator on ClimbingGrade.com — enter your numbers and get your grade instantly.
Take the 9c Test →Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a hangboard to take the test?
For Exercise 1 (finger strength), yes — you need a 20mm edge and a way to add weight safely. A hangboard with a weight belt or training harness is the standard setup. For Exercises 2–4, you only need a pull-up bar. Many gyms have all the necessary equipment.
Should I warm up before testing?
Yes, always. Finger strength tests in particular carry injury risk if you attempt them cold. A 20–30 minute warmup with progressive loading is strongly recommended. Never test at maximum intensity without proper preparation.
How often should I test?
Testing every 6–8 weeks gives enough time for meaningful adaptation while keeping you motivated. Testing too frequently (every week) introduces noise from daily fatigue. Testing before a rest week or at a peak in your training cycle gives the most reliable results.
Can my score be higher than my actual climbing grade?
Yes. Strong but inexperienced climbers often score significantly above their current climbing grade because they haven't yet developed the technique to translate strength into climbing performance. Conversely, highly technical climbers with years of practice often climb above what their score would predict.